Being healthy in China (or, the only country where you can over indulge on cabbage)

Hey Kids,

As I’m down to my last couple of weeks here in China I wanted to write some more posts before I get absorbed back into the Western world. This is one that I’ve been meaning to write for a while, but it is also one that I’m glad I left to the end. I’m gonna try and keep this as observational and vaguely informative as possible.

So, you’ve just arrived in China.The last couple of weeks were spent partying and indulging on delicious home cuisine with tears in your eyes thinking about the next time you will get the chance to cuddle up with a hot chocolate and a cinnamon scroll. But that doesn’t matter, you’re in China now. The land of small waists and tiny, chopstick-sized mouthfuls. You feel a teensy bit excited about how easy it will be to get into that pair of jeans that were too small but you bought anyway cause they were on sale. Actually, they were currently lining the bottom of your suitcase in anticipation for that day to come.
The next thing you know, you are swept up in the gentle chaos that is China. Losing weight and eating well is the last thing on your mind, as so it should be.

When I got to Ji’an I realised that those too-tight jeans were even tighter. It got me thinking…what went wrong? When I was studying in Nanjing I was doing Taichi and Yoga weekly. I had tried to do some running, but was shortly put off due to the increasing smog levels. I felt like I ate pretty well at meal-times, always lots of veggies and very minimal meat.

It wasn’t until I started to notice my weight getting back to normal did I realise where those extra calories had come from.

1- A complete change in diet leads to cravings: In the west we eat a large amount of bread and wheat products, as well as A LOT of dairy. In China, these are two of the hardest things to find and the worst things to consume when you do find them. Whereas back home I would usually be found eating a salad sandwich with organic Rye bread or something, in China that wheat craving was replaced by Chinese bread which is NOT REALLY BREAD. I’m not entirely sure what it is, but the locals consider it a sort of confectionary snack, it is blindingly white and packed full of sugar. The same goes for dairy. I started taking calcium supplements because the lack of milk products was such a drastic change for my body, my fingernails were soft and cracked and I ate a lot of eggs because it was one of the only dairy sources I could find that seemed somewhat natural. China has a bad history of milk product poisoning (especially, baby formula, they always know about Australia because that’s where people buy their baby formula from) so I tried to avoid dairy as much as possible. However, when I did find it it was in the form of Bubble tea, drinking yoghurt and weird fruity flavoured milk drinks sold in convenience stores. All of these things are packed with sugar. So, you know, I couldn’t find that low fat Greek yoghurt I like so much.

Weird fruit milk. Looks like milk, tastes like apples. Probably has neither milk nor apples in it.

Weird fruit milk. Looks like milk, tastes like apples. Probably has neither milk nor apples in it.

2- Communal meals don’t control portion sizes: A lot of the time when you eat out in China, you go to a restaurant with a bunch of other people and order approximately a dish each, which is then laid out on the table for everyone to attack with their chopsticks. If you have grown up eating a single serving on your own plate, like I have, then it becomes pretty tricky to work out how much food you need to eat before you are full. After a childhood of being told to ‘clean your plate’ it is psychologically hard to stop eating when confronted with a table full of food.

3- Chopsticks do not lead to taking smaller bites: Have you seen the locals eat? I think it’s even faster than a knife and fork because in China you just raise the bowl up to your mouth and basically pour the food in. None of this cutting, spearing, raising to the mouth junk.

4- Eating means you don’t have to talk: Sitting down with a large group of people to a meal generally means they will begin multiple conversations around you, speaking rapidly in a language that is hard enough to follow for you even without the background din of other rowdy diners. What do you do? You can’t just sit there, grinning like a fool while straining to hear the people on the other side of the table who may or may not have just mentioned the political situation in Xinjiang. So, you eat. Eating means you can smile, nod and generally look amiacable without seeming rude or so clearly out of your depth.

5- Vegetables do not equal healthy here: Yes, I will admit that I managed to raise my daily servings of vegetables from, like, three per day to ten. However, somehow I don’t think the health benefits count if said vegetables are fried in gallons of oil and seasoned with various amounts of white sugar, salt and MSG. The oil, salt and MSG also lend a very addictive quality to that innocent looking eggplant.

So, how did I overcome these problems whilst in Ji’an?

1- Cravings: Removed from Nanjing, I had even less options in a small city like Ji’an when it came to finding any substitutes for wheat and dairy. Also, I was more used to the diet by this point and didn’t feel that weird hunger after every meal anymore.

2- Communal meals: I was no longer in a big student body that wanted to go out for a communal meal almost every evening, so I had less instances of these. Also, when I went out I made sure to eat slower and to drink copious cups of tea-water-stuff. I also became more confident in speaking Chinese and made a point to start a conversation with the person directly next to me, thereby distracting me from my food.

3- Vegetarianism: I made the decision to embrace vegetarianism shortly after getting to Ji’an. I never particularly enjoyed eating meat, especially not the fatty, bone- ridden (dodgy) meat that you get in China.

4- Home cooking: With my own apartment and basic kitchen set up (*COUGH* a bucket as a sink, an electric pan, one bowl and a pair of chopsticks that the old woman downstairs gave me) I managed to work out how to make some pretty delicious meals using the vegetables that the villagers sold and no oil, no MSG and very minimal salt.

5- Exercise: It definitely helped that Ji’an has nearly zero pollution and that it was the middle of summer instead of the dead of winter. I bought a pair of rollerblades and proceeded to get insanely passionate about getting home from work in time to go for a skate around the university grounds.

Inline Skating with my friend. I'm the one on the left cracking up. (Photo: Emccall 2014)

Inline Skating with my friend. I’m the one on the right cracking up. (Photo: Emccall 2014)

So, in conclusion, losing and gaining weight is pretty common when dealing with such drastic changes to one’s circumstances. It isn’t something to be worried about and ain’t nobody got time to obsess over a pair of jeans in the middle of an adventure like living in China. However, I hope this might help some other foreigners in China who are wondering where they ‘went wrong.’ I also hope that people who have never lived in a foreign country for an extended period of time will be able to skip the scrutiny of someone’s outward appearance when they get home, and notice instead how much has changed inside.

The story of Jián and a bonus hilarious anecdote

IFChina, the NGO I am interning with here in Jián, is currently hosting two photographers from Nepal. These photographers founded Photo.Circle (a cultural NGO in Kathmandu) and we are lucky enough to be basking in their wisdom. I’m a staff member here, so it means I’m not taking part in the photography assignments but I enjoy being camera woman, occasional translator and all-round helpful person. I love being able to reflect on how far I’ve come during my 6 months here, from completely bamboozled and feeling out of my depth to working on a project like this one. I get to share my cultural knowledge, observations and advice with two outsiders and I also get to appreciate how awesome it is knowing the language when I see the two photographers trying to work out how to buy food. Like….Chinese is so totally useful!

The photography project that we are working on is ‘The Story of Jián’ and I think it is very poetic that this is one of the last things I am going to be involved in during my stay here. Participants are shooting stories of everyday people of Jián (characters that feel familiar to me now) and places that I’ve been to. In the end, we will have a collection of photos which are a sort of… time capsule of this city. I like that I will always have these photos to look at, because I know that when I come back, whenever that will be, the people and the city would have already changed. Such is the nature of China. It is a place that is constantly developing.

I am helping put together an exhibition of the photos, which is also exciting and totally surreal (like, am I really helping coordinate an exhibition of street photography in the middle of China… I feel like this was a dream of mine that I hadn’t even realised I had.) And everyone will be given a book of all the photos. Really, the greatest souvenir of my time here.

A quick hilarious anecdote (Dedicated to my friend Sophie who wants funny stories for her script writing projects.)

The other day I went with the Nepalese photographers to meet children from a nearby village who are involved in an IFChina photography project. I was acting as translator, when one serious little 9 year old girl asked me why I was the one translating when the photographers clearly looked more Chinese than me. After explaining that they were from a nearby country and spoke a different language, she nodded thoughtfully and added that other languages are not the same as Chinese and that words in other languages don’t really mean anything in Chinese. I agreed with her in all seriousness. Then she asked me why her own Chinese accent was better than mine, even though I was older.

One of the photographers decided to do a short activity with the children. We were in a park and it was a good location for them to run around in, taking photos. They were given four things to find and photograph. Firstly, something pretty. They sprinted off and naturally took photos of interesting rocks and flowers. Secondly, they had to take a photo of something ugly. One girl presented her photo of a fat man proudly, her friend pushed ahead and showed us her photo of the fat man’s fat child. As the third thing was announced, as luck would have it, a wedding party and some kids on rollerblades were approaching us. They had to take a photo of something moving fast. Half of the kids went and harrassed the bride to try to make her walk faster, the other half formed a hunting party to chase after the children on rollerblades. Chaos ensued. Finally, after the poor children on rollerblades were driven far from the area nearly in tears, they were told to take a picture of something they hadn’t seen before. Most of them went and took pictures of (more) interesting rocks and flowers, but one little girl came up and told me to pose so she could take a picture of me “I’ve never seen someone with white skin before” she said. Smart kid.

Cute kiddie wonkles (Photo: Emccall 2014)

Cute kiddie wonkles (Photo: Emccall 2014)

Something Quick

Something Moving Fast (Photo: Emccall 2014)

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